Official R2-SB Team Builders Logo

Between the hours of the actual build I am usually coming up with designs for my droid. Some of the things I am working on are T-Shirts, Buttons, Stickers and zipper pulls. This way when I finally get this little guy out in public I will have come things to pass out to the kids/fans.



3/20/13 :Build Log

R2-SB has a voice,

Last week my amp and speakers arrived. everything is so small. I ordered A pyle mini amp capible of 300 wats total / 2 channels. It uses a rca mini plug is the input. and a pair of 3.5″ Boston Accustic SE speakers for his voice. The install went pretty fast, unlike everything else ive been doing. I mounted the Speakers onto the Com8-A Frame and mounted the 4″x3″x2″ Pile  PLAM35 mini amp mounted to a piece of cutting board behind the utility arm tray. i fit perfect and is out of the way. I dont have any other electronics installed yet so to test it out I pluged my phone into the amp using the 3.5 audio jack. Then I ran some R2-sounds thru the set up and just to test the highs and lows i played the THX sound check thru the speakers. well all I have to say is WOW! it sounds great. listen for your self. Happy Building


hp’s are here

3/20/13 build log

Woohoo my 3 aluminum HP’s arrived on Saturday. now i can finally get back to some Dome work.

I had already pre cut the HP holes in the inner dome, now i need to expand them so the HP housing would fit like a glove. so after reading thru some of the forums on Astromech.net I came across a technique to sand the prefect circle. it involves emory cloth. (a fabric backed sand paper made for metal work) and a wine bottle, make sure its empty. ( do not attempt to drink the wine than work on the dome though!) drinking and droiding dont mix.

   First wrap the emory cloth around the tappered part of the wine bottle use your adhisive of choice to connect the ends and from the inside of the dome start sanding your HP holes always checking the size to the HP Housing. I started out with a 150 grit but found it was not aggressive enough so i swithed to 60 grit. It works much better. it took aproximatly 45 min to get a hole to the right size and if your fore arms are’nt in shape “they will be, they, will be” the sanding motion you want to use is a twisting motion. hand on the bottom of the bottle which is inside the dome. I also found you can hold the bottle more stady by grabing the neck from the outside of the dome, pull tight and rotate in sink. the more pressure on the bottle the mure aggessive the sanding will be. Remember to check the HP housing continuously. my method for keeping the dome steady was sitting on a carpated floor and holding the akward round dome in a scissor hold with my legs but you may fink a better solution. I have finished two of the three HP holes the last one is the pie panel. The fore arms were beat so, one more to go.

some results:


well thats all for now – Happy Building


more parts on there way!

3/02/13: Parts Update
This is a parts update due to not much progress being completed in the build but here is a list of some more parts. one 1. three Holoprojector control mounst, these will control the XY movement of the HoloProjectors. 2. This is the first aluminum purchase for the frame, the center vents and internals. Now for the audio, I have acquired a pyle-plmpa35 mini amp and a pair of Boston acoustic 3.5″ speakers, not bad for a days work. Happy building


Electronics Panel installed

2/24/13 – Build Log

Well the teece lighting system is finished, well almost I’m having a PSI issue which I working on. Still waiting on the Aluminum HP’s to arrive so until then the Dome Work has come to a halt. So I guess its time to figure out how I’m going to lay out all the electronics in my frame. To start i Have decided to mount my Electronics Panel, one of the way is to hing it to A bar located right below the door when I tried this i noticed I loose some space at the bottom of my panel doe to the fact that it folds down and rests on the frame so I decided to create a door hing on my panel and mount it directly to the door. this way I can mount any small electronics to the outside of the door and any of the bulkier stuff to the inside. Conveniently there are two holes in the exact spot for the pins. coincidence maybe but i have not seen this type of mount on a droid yet. here are a few photos of my progress. 

   happy building

more dome work

2/17/13 Build log:

Well after another day of cutting clipping and fileing the dome is compleatly cut out and eges are filed smooth, even the circles. I have yet to use the bottle sanding technique on the circles as I’m waiting on the Hp’s to make sure the holes ar the perfect size.  I am hesitant on finishing off the logic display holes and HP holes domto the fact that the resin logic displys are larger than both the inner and oter dome holes provided. I am going to verify that they are a copy of the aluminum ones before I do anything perminant. “measure twice cut once” but other than that I am very pleased with the results so far. here are some phots of my progress. 



I am now figuring out the schematics of my droid. trying to figure out all the components making a list of the parts i am going to purchas and adding up the Volts and amps to figure out what type of power this little guy is going to consume. well thats all for now. Happy Building



Dome: PSI, HP & logic display holes cut


Build Log:

Dome continued:
   Today I played hookie, the frame i ordered was being delivered and a signature is required. This ment i got to do more cutting on my dome. I spent the day drilling a million holes on all the parts i was dreading to cut. logic display front and back the two psi ports and the holo-projector holes. Im still not done but thats because I heard the beautiful sound of the UPS truck pull up to my house. I love this guy, every time he stops by he brings me gifts. so my priorities for the day shifted. which was nice because I was all Domed out.


The Com-8 Frame assembly:

  It was fastest unboxing you could imagine. after going over the instructions I was assembling my new frame. all black anodized aluminum Com-8 A frame, with 3/4 door. had it assembled after 2.5 hours. What a beauty it is and the nice thing was I bought it from the Astromech junkyard so the rocker bearing hole were already drilled. arrived 3:30pm and had the dome mounted by 6:30. R2-SB is really coming along. Happy Building


R2-SB branding

   More parts ordered for my R2. Oh i guess this is a good time to mention the theme of my Droid.
R2-SB (A South Beach Droid) being from miami its only fitting to base my droids design on South Beach and the art deco colors that are associated with it, so R2-SB (South Beach) will have a Aqua  with accents of pink. here is his official logo that i can add to anything in going to associate with him. plus i plan on creating a few other designs as well.


    the parts ordered are all resin. my droid will be all aluminum in the end i only ordered these to tie me over till then. the nice thing about having some resin parts is i can do a test paint sheme on these parts and get a good feel for what the aluminum end product will be. 

   Radar eye- main eye is aqua and the section to the right will be pink, I cant wait to test this out on a resin piece insted of an aluminum piece.

   logic display ports- only temporary until some alluminums come available.utility arms – aqua arms with pink accents on the indentsAlso I should be recieving The frame tomorrow. this is really gonna kick it up a notch. I am gonna try to mount the rockler to it tomorrow more pics when I have some progress done.   Happy Building


periscope and rotation

   For now the periscope  is untouched. I have designed a mount that hides a mini servo and allows the periscope to spin smoothly 90 degrees in both directions. To do this i used PVC tubing that fit perfectly inside the riser base and constructed a styrene servo housing that slides securely into the PVC. I did not glue it in in case i need to replace the servo. the riser base has an aluminum shaft that slides thru two bearings and attaches to the servo with a servo end attached inside the aluminunm rod that fits into the center of the riser base.

Periscope lighting:
I spent an afternoon shaving down the red rectangle LEDSs for the bottom front of the periscope and then soldered everything onto the board as instructed. it looks great.
Well thats all for now! more to come as process continues. Thanks for Viewing.
Happy building.


dome cutting begins

02/04/13 Build log:

  I cant do much until I get the 300 Dome Prepped Cut and Cleaned. so here was the process.
The 300 dome:

   I started out by Aligning and taping all the panels I had previously removed and cleaned from the outer Dome, there should be a nickels’ edge of space between each gap before you tape them on. then with a lot of measuring and re measuring I aligned the outer dome to the inner dome taped them together. Then I traced all the areas where I’m going to need to cut. I did this using a 3/4 inch washer and with a mechanical pencil placed on the inside of the washer I followed the outside edge of the panel this created a line about 3/16 in from where the edge of each panel sits. after that i used a 1/8 inch drill bit in my Dremel 4000 with the flexshaft attachment. then it was time to drill holes, alot of them. I have decided to cut out 12 of the panels in the dome. It took approximately 15 minutes per panel to drill. and found the Flex shaft to be a god send. the control I had was amazing. next was to cut out the drilled holes remove the inner aluminum piece and file down all the rough edges. got the bottom holes done today it took a lot of elbow grease but the end result was beautiful. 




Tips on drilling the holes:

   Use a flexshaft! It allowed me to firmly plant my hand on the dome and have complete control over the drill bits placement. By doing this I could control the placement of the bit so as to not drill past any of the pencil lines.
Tips on Filing to a clean edge: 

   First i used a carbide sanding wheel in the flexshaft to grind down the large jagged edges then i switched to a hand file that is flat on one side and curved on the other. I found that using the right pressure and pulling the file towards me not only took down the edges faster and cleaner but I also had much better control in the process.  follow up with a finer toothed file to finnish the edges then sand if necessary.
   The most important tip for this process is to”TAKE YOUR TIME” you can always shave more off but you can add more on